Ludvigs in Sitka, Alaska

You might think that in the isolation of a small Alaskan island like Sitka, amidst the abundance of trees and wildlife, you would be hard-pressed to find culinary offerings other than what you can catch with your own two hands. An evening at the town's famous watering hole, The Pioneer Bar, might conjure up images of barbecue and cheese whiz. Imagine my delight when crossing the threshold of Ludvigs -- a small seasonal bistro run by chef Collette and her partner. Oh, what a little candle light and a good wine list can do after a day on a boat!

The heart of their menu, and their most successful dishes, feature Alaskan salmon, rock fish and King Crab. White Salmon (to some, albino) was particularly well appointed on brightly flavored risotto and sauced with a glorious tomato reduction. The Bistro Steak was unfussy and well-seasoned. Other dishes added a good portion of bacon, including the Tuscan scallops (a local favorite) and the day's fresh catch. While I'm no a stranger to a good porcine fix, bacon overpowered the delicately flavored fruit de mer. The Mediterranean dishes, like the Cioppino and Paella, were generous in seafood but fell a little flat on the palate. Our meal ended on a highest of notes -- desserts and cappuchinos-- with a lemony cheese cake and a perfectly crisp creme brulee.